Via the Guardian books blog, I recently came across a site called pollthepeople.com which is trying to compile a definitive list of the world's favourite books based on the submission of its readers' top fives. I assume it is still in its infancy given that My Take by that literary giant Gary Barlow is currently at number 13 ahead of the likes of Jane Eyre (51), War and Peace (65), and The Chronicles of Narnia (390).
Sadly, I haven't read Gary Barlow's autobiography so I shouldn't really comment on its position in the list. It may be really good. He did write A Million Love Songs, after all. What I really want to know is where is my first choice, my favorite book, Charlie and the Chocolate Factory?
I may have spent four years at university studying high brow works of literature but Charlie and the Chocolate Factory will always be my favorite book in the world. Willie Wonka is my hero, an eccentric, creative genius who believes that eating is not just about taste, it's about theatre and experience. Lickable wallpaper, fizzy-lifting drink, three-course meal gum: such wonderful, innovative concepts that had me salivating over my copy and that would have modern Health and Safety inspectors dribbling over their clipboards. As the great Gene Wilder sang in the original film version of the book:
There is no
Life I know
To compare with
Pure imagination
Living there
You'll be free
If you truly wish to be
Heston Blumenthal has often been called a real life Willy Wonka and it's not surprising that the next launch from The Fat Duck will be an online sweet shop. The look of wonder on the faces of Richard E Grant and Terry Wogan at Heston's Perfect Christmas Dinner reminded me of the wide-eyed children as they enter Wonka's factory and frolic around his edible landscape taking bites out of toadstools and plucking sugary flowers. Detractors call it gimmickery. I call it pure imagination.
Is this kind of inventiveness possible in the domestic kitchen? During my time at Bacchus I was shown a technique called spherification that allows you to turn liquid preparations into spherical "ravioli" or even create your own "caviar" in all sorts of flavours. I was sufficiently enthralled by the idea to request a Texturas mini starter kit for my birthday, and last week it arrived along with an ISI cream whipper for making espumas and delicate foams. I'm sure as the postman arrived I could hear some chanting in the air...
Oompa loompa doompatee doo
I've got a lovely present for you
Ooopa loompa doompatee dee
It's a reverse spherification kit from the guys at El Bulli!
or maybe I was just hearing things again. Either way, my kitchen is turning into a lab and I can see numerous weekends ahead mixing gels and powders in an effort to produce perfect spheres of fruit puree that explode in the mouth on biting. Well I might as well plan some activities for another rainy British summer!
Showing posts with label Heston. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Heston. Show all posts
Sunday, 27 April 2008
Wednesday, 2 January 2008
The Curious Incident of A Duck In The Day-time, Night-time, Day-time, and another Night-time
Epic.
It's not a word to be used lightly. Ben Hur is an epic. The Iliad is an epic. Villa's 4-4 draw with Chelski on Boxing Day was an epic. Epics are filled with challenges to be faced, triumphs over adversity, and occasional lessons in car waxing by wise Japanese mentors.
Heston Blumenthal's Peking Duck recipe is epic. If these were ancient times, the Oracle of Delphi may well have given Hercules the choice of capturing Cerberus alive or making Peking Duck as his twelfth labour. Deal of no deal? No deal. Cerberus was a puppy in comparison.
It's Wednesday 2nd January 2008. I'm off the saline drip and out of the Bacofoil blanket. Light beads of sweat are still clustering around my temples but the worst of the palpitations are over. They say I may never be the same again, that the nightmares may persist into old age, that I may wake up in the middle of the night screaming about ice filtration. Please Mummy, let the pain stop. Bring back yeast and puff pastry. All is forgiven.
Here is my story. Let us never speak of it again.
Saturday 29th December and it's the first of several shopping trips. I visit See Woo to pick up some Chinese ingredients including maltose, mushrooms, won ton wrappers, and frozen pancakes. I pass the ducks, hanging all bronzed and ready to eat. How easy it would be to just buy one for £8, chop it up, and serve it to our guests. I continue walking, laughing at such a ridiculous thought. A wizened old Chinese lady looks at me strangely and i eyeball her right back. She cackles to herself, her demented rictus further wrinkling her wafery skin. She knows something that I don't.
I pick up two Taste the Difference ducks at Sainsburys for £10.53 each. This meal might bankrupt me as well as mentally and physically destroy me. Oh well. What need is there for money in an asylum. We head into London to spend my Pages voucher but they only have giant pressure cookers for sale. We watch a rubbish French film at the Curzon with no plotline or entertainment value and then we head home without a pressure cooker knowing the stock needs to be started early on Sunday morning and the first mild panic begins to set it.
On Sunday 30th I'm up at 7.30am. I need to be at Argos in Peckham at opening time to buy a pressure cooker and grab some pork ribs from the butcher so I have a couple of hours to skin and joint the ducks. The first real challenge begins: Skinning the ducks while keeping the skin in one single piece with no holes. I complete the first but struggle down the centre line of the breasts where the skin seems to be welded to the meat and a few little holes appear. Still, it's not bad for the first go. The second skin is slightly better, but still a couple of holes are in evidence. Thank God I'm not performing some vital skin graft.
I'm back home with a new pressure cooker and some pork ribs by 11.30am so the first stage in the stock making process is underway by midday. The recipe calls for the meat to be added in two stages so it should be done and cooling by two pm. I'm a couple of hours behind schedule already.
The stock contains aromatics including ginger, szechuan pepper, shaoxing wine, star anise, cinnamon, and spring onions.
There's enough meat in there to make a vegetarian weep.
When done, the stock smells great and the aromatics have certainly done their job. It's beginning to smell like a Chinese restaurant in here. Now to turn it into consomme with no egg white clarification involved. We're ice filtering which should leave a perfectly clear liquid. I figure on a couple of hours to cool and jellify and then 4 hours in the freezer to solidify so I can start the ice filtration process at around 8pm giving me the required 24 hours to filter.
Meanwhile I start to confit the legs. They need to be kept in a salt/spice mix for twelve hours before cooking for six hours at 65 degrees. Mandarin zest combined with cinnamon, cardamon and star anise gives the mixture a lovely chrismassy aroma.
Well at least that was fairly simple.
Time to check on the stock. It's 4pm and still no sign of jellification and in fact it's not jellified until 6pm. My legs are also beginning to turn to jelly. Straight into the freezer with the container. I'm in trouble if it doesn't freeze in four hours. Now to brine the duck crown for 12 hours. This should cause moisture to enter the flesh via osmosis making it succulent when cooked.
The legs are salting, the crown is brining, there are a load of chemical reactions set to happen in the fridge overnight. At 8pm the stock in the freezer is still jelly, but unfortunately not frozen jelly. At midnight it's the same story with just a few ice crystals beginning to form. I'm beginning to suspect that the book has lied to me or that Heston hasn't taken into account the freezing capabilities of a domestic freezer. I need to go to bed.
I wake up in the night. It's 1.30am so I head down to the kitchen to check on the stock. Still wobbly. I'm in deep doggy doo-doo. There's nothing for it but to get up early and hope for the best. Five hours later I'm downstairs again and it seems to have frozen but not particularly solid. Still, there's no more time to waste and the block goes onto muslin and over a bowl to collect the consomme. Please Lord, let it drip like an incontinent geriatric.
It's New Year's Eve. The last day of 2007. Will it turn out to be the day from hell? The morning is calm and I prep my mise and make my raspberry rice pudding for dessert. Oh, did I forget to mention that I was making a dessert? It's a raspberry rice pudding with home made coconut icecream. Or maybe I should have done that Baked Alaska...
The crown is rinsed of brining solution over a two hour period, with the water changed every 15 minutes. The duck legs are removed from their rub and rinsed as well. The recipe doesn't say how many times to do this and I don't want to remove the flavour of mandarin and spices too much. Bit of a gamble on this one as I fear it could end up too salty. At 1pm they are covered in duck fat and go into an oven for 6 hours.
Time to attempt the skin. I stretch one over a cake rack and using a combination of saftey pins and butcher's string manage to attach it fairly securely. It looks like something out of Silence of the Lambs. It goes in with the legs to cook for 3 hours.
A few more things to do. The consomme is slowly filtering through and by 4pm I have about enough to feed a small dieting midget. The mushrooms are braised to go with the consomme and I need some of the stock to reduce with some mirin which has deglazed the pan.
Now for the dumplings to go with the consomme. Leeks and savoy cabbage are sweated and then cooled and added to minced duck breast and various aromatics. This is the only part where I wander off recipe. I think the quantities may be wrong - there seems to be far too much leek, cabbage and spring onion in ratio to the duck meat. I use half the quantity suggested.
Time to give the wife a fun job. She does a great job of filling the wonton wrappers and the dumplings are ready to go. Again the pictures in the book show no sign of the vegetables in the mince mix - it just looks like meat to me.
It's 4.30pm and our two guests are due to arrive in three hours. I have now got enough stock to feed one non-dieting midget, but I think I need to start poaching the crown. Problem is the book says the crown meat needs to get to 70 degrees but I have no idea how long that will take. I reckon 3 hours in 70 degree water. I concede defeat with the consomme, there are no more ice crystals and so nothing else to drip through. I will not achieve perfect clarity but the taste should still be good. I warm the jelly back into a liquid and start to poach the crown using the strained aromatics, some of the consomme, and additional water.
At 6pm the confit is ready. I taste it and as I feared, it's too salty for my taste. Damn it.
Nevertheless I shred the meat and reserve for the stir fry. The skin is looking good and I add the maltose glaze and cook at a higher temperature. Sticking a meat thermometer into the crown I see it reads 50 degrees. Still some time to go yet.
It's 7.30pm and I'm ready. The kitchen looks like the aftermath of a midwestern tornado, but I'm where I want to be in terms of preparation. Everything is chopped and ready for the stir fry, the dessert is done, the crown is poaching and the consomme and dumplings just need to be heated and steamed. Testing the meat again, it's at 65 degrees. Nearly there, I test the other breast. The reading jumps to 96 degrees. What the..? It's overcooked. The guests aren't even here. Argggggggggggggggggggggggh! I need to take it out but it will dry out and lose its moisture, the brining will have been for nothing. NIGHTMARE!
Alex and Kirsten arrive. Given the state of the crown we're going to have to eat earlier than expected. The pancakes are steamed and the duck and skin are sliced.
Course One: Duck Pancakes
Ok, so the meat was overcooked but it was still tasty. The skin was a crispy success although I didn't manage to get the lacquered finish that Heston achieved. Was it the best duck pancake I'd ever eaten? I'm afraid not, but if I was to do it again I would get a new meat thermometer and put more maltose glaze on the skin. Verdict 6/10.
Course Two: Duck Confit and Shitake Mushroom Stir Fry with Iceberg Lettuce
This course seemed to go down the best around the table, although I felt the saltiness of the meat overpowered the dish. Having said that, there were a few salt fiends present. Wrapped in crisp iceberg lettuce leaves it was packed with flavour and had a nice chilli kick too. For me, simply removing more of the salt prior to confit would have made this a winner. Verdict: 7/10
Course Three: Duck Consomme with Dumplings and Pickled Cucumber
Visually this was a stunning dish and the consomme ended up pretty clear in the end. The real key to lifting the dish was the pickled cucumber which added a sweet and sour punch to the dumplings and broth. I'd say the consomme could have been reduced a bit more to give more flavour and if the ice filtration was properly done I'm sure it would have been closer to perfection. Given a second go then, I'd add more cucumber to the finished dish,and add a bit of crunch to the dumplings for textural variety, maybe with some diced water chestnuts. Verdict 7/10
Course Four: Raspberry Rice Pudding with Coconut Icecream and Bitter Chocolate Shard
I was really happy with this dessert. The flavours worked really well together and the ice cream was smooth and rich. The portions were slightly too big but that can be changed next time. Verdict 8/10
So in summary, was it the best Peking Duck meal ever? No. Was all the time and effort noticeable in the finished dishes? Not really. Did I learn anything from the experience? Yes. And that, dear friends, is the most important thing. The first time you do something, it will very rarely be perfect. You learn from your mistakes, make the necessary changes, and second time round things will be much closer to perfection. If I were to do it again it would be way better, but alas, that will never happen. Life really is too short to do that twice. Maybe Heston will come across this post and at least feel satisfied that somebody has actually followed the recipe from start to finish. And then maybe he'll ring me and offer me a job in his research kitchen. We should all have dreams for 2008.
Happy new year, everyone!
Monday, 31 December 2007
New Year's Eve Masochism
I love Peking Duck. Proper Peking Duck. I first experienced a typical 3 course duck menu in Hong Kong when I was about 12 and I still remember it well. It was in the Rainbow Room of the Lee Gardens Hotel and Dad had to order it a day in advance. This was no dry stringy duck affair. The flesh was moist and juicy. The skin was glistening and crisp. Since then I've had some great duck experiences. BBQ King in Sydney is great, although we just had the pancake course there. We went to a couple of restaurants in Beijing including Da Dong where they carve the duck at the table into about 40 pieces. It's a real spectacle. In London, China Tang at the Dorchester must offer one of the most authentic Peking Duck experiences and at over £50 a duck, so it should.
So when Heston did his perfect Peking Duck I watched with interest and shelved my plans for a simple New Year's Eve dinner of cold meats and cheese. 2008 is going to be a really challenging year, so hey, why not say goodbye to 2007 with something simple?
Because I'm a sucker for punishment, that's why.
So here it is. Heston's 3 course Peking Duck recipe. I've been doing a few searches on the www and I can't find any mere mortal who has attempted it yet. The BBC website for "Perfection" invites readers to send in photos of their attempts to recreate the featured recipes. Unsurprisingly there are not too many: a couple of Baked Alaskas and a DIY Tandoor.
In this recipe, Heston uses grams for both solid and liquid measurements for pinpoint accuracy. To weigh liquids, any suitable container can be placed on digital scales and the scales reset to zero.
Ingredients
For the ducks
2 whole ducks, preferably Silver Hill breed
For the consommé
750g/1lb 10½oz reserved chicken wings, chopped into small pieces
1.2kg/2lb 10¼oz pork spare ribs, cut into 2½cm/1in pieces
reserved duck carcasses, wing tips, necks, extra meat and trimmings, chopped into small pieces
40g/1½oz fresh ginger, thinly sliced
60g/2¼oz spring onions, sliced
90g/3¼oz Shaoxing rice wine or fino sherry
For the consommé infusion and ice filtration
1kg/2¼lb finished stock (reserve any extra for future use)
20g/¾oz fresh ginger, sliced
2½g/¼oz Sichuan peppercorns
2g¼oz Sichuan chillies, roasted
2g/¼oz cinnamon stick
4g/¼oz star anise
10g/½oz spring onions
For the duck confit
42g/1½oz star anise
24g/¾oz ground ginger
12g/½oz Sichuan peppercorns
12g/½oz cinnamon stick
6g/¼oz cardamom
150g/5¼oz sel gris or coarse sea salt
1 mandarin orange, zest only
4 reserved duck legs
rendered duck fat
For the pickled cucumber
50g/1¾oz water
75g/2½oz white wine vinegar
25g/1oz sugar
1 English cucumber
For the pancake garnish
reserved middle section of cucumber
1 bunch spring onions
For the duck crown
1 cinnamon stick
5 whole star anise
3 whole cloves
10 coriander seeds
5 black peppercorns
60g/2¼oz salt
1kg/2lb 3¼oz water
For the crispy skin
reserved sheets of duck skin
125g/4½oz malt extract (maltose, available from health food shops)
25g/1oz rice wine vinegar
75g/2½oz wood chips, ideally cherrywood
For finishing the duck and skin
reserved unfiltered stock from the muslin, plus sufficient water to make 2kg/4lb 6½oz liquid in total
1 reserved brined duck crown
2 sheets prepared duck skin
2kg/4lb 6½oz grapeseed oil or other vegetable oil
For serving the pancakes
reserved sliced duck breast
reserved crispy skin
reserved cucumber batons and spring onion ribbons
Peking duck or hoisin sauce, such as Lee Kum Kee's
18-20 pancakes (available from supermarkets and oriental grocers)
For the mushrooms and aromatics
140g/5oz shiitake mushrooms, sliced 2cm/1in thick
15g/½oz fresh ginger, finely julienned
50g/1¾oz spring onion, finely julienned
25g/1oz shallot, minced
5g/¼oz garlic, minced
2g/¼oz Sichuan chillies, de-seeded and sliced
2 Sichuan peppercorns, crushed
1 small fresh red chilli, thinly sliced
For the glaze
65g/2½oz white port
50g/1¾oz Shaoxing rice wine or fino sherry
500g/1lb 2oz reserved cooking broth (from the crown poaching liquid)
3½g/¼oz fresh ginger, thinly sliced
2g/¼oz star anise, crushed
sherry vinegar, to taste
For serving the duck confit
grapeseed oil or groundnut oil
reserved mushrooms and aromatics
reserved glaze
reserved shredded duck confit
soy sauce
sesame oil
1 head iceberg lettuce, separated into individual leaves
For the braised shiitake mushrooms
4 large shiitake mushrooms
25g/1oz grapeseed or groundnut oil
30g/1oz mirin
100g/3½oz reserved duck consommé
10g/½oz light soy sauce
For the dumplings
200g/7oz reserved duck meat (taken from one of the reserved breasts)
½ tsp salt
120g/4¼oz finely minced leek
120g/4¼oz finely minced savoy cabbage
25g/1oz unsalted butter
1½ tsp skimmed milk powder
60g/2¼oz duck fat
50g/1¾oz free-range egg
14g/½oz soy sauce
25g/1oz sesame oil
15g/½oz fresh ginger, finely chopped
50g/1¾oz spring onion, finely chopped
½ tsp freshly ground and sifted black pepper
12 thin, round wonton wrappers (available at Asian grocers)
For serving the consommé with dumplings
800g/1lb 12¼oz finished consommé
4 reserved braised shiitake mushrooms
12 reserved dumplings
12 slices of reserved pickled cucumber
12 reserved spring onion ribbons
8 drops jasmine essential oil
Method
You will need the following specialist equipment: mandoline, pressure cooker, bamboo steamer, food processor, barding needle, butcher's string, kitchen shears, wire rack wrapped in muslin, oven thermometer, digital probe.
PREPARING THE DUCKS
1. Remove the giblets from the ducks. Reserve everything except the livers for the consommé, then rinse the cavity of the birds.
2. Remove the head, neck and wing tips of both birds, cutting as close to the body as you can without damaging the skin on the breast. Reserve the head, neck and wing tips for the consommé.
3. To remove the skin from the birds, begin by using a paring knife to cut through the tendons at the bottom joint of the legs.
4. Working with one duck at a time, cut a slit through the skin on the back, running from the top to the bottom of the bird. Using a pair of kitchen shears, remove the parson's nose.
5. Use your knife to gently free the skin from the flesh. Begin by peeling back the skin on both sides of the long cut. When you reach the legs and wings turn the bird over on to its back and continue peeling the skin away from the wings and then from the legs. Do your best to keep the skin intact and in one piece. Repeat this process with the other duck.
6. Remove the legs from the ducks by popping each joint from its hip socket and then cutting it away from the body. Reserve the legs for the confit.
7. Remove the wings in a similar fashion - by popping them from their sockets and then cutting them away from the body.
8. Reserve the wings for the consommé. Chop the bones and reserve for the consommé.
9. Take one duck and use kitchen shears to cut through the ribs, separating the breast from the back. Cut close to the breast and then cut through to the neck. The idea is to have a clean separation between the breasts on the bone and the ribs, back and neck. Reserve this 'crown' of breast and the back for the first course.
10. Remove the wishbone from the crown by carefully cutting along it with your knife, then using your fingers to prise it loose.
11. Take the other duck and remove the breast meat with your knife. Reserve 200g/7oz of this meat for the dumplings and use the rest in the consommé.
12. Reserve the butchered carcasses of the ducks for the consommé.
MAKING THE CONSOMME
1. Put half of all the meats and trimmings, half the aromatics and half the Shaoxing rice wine in a pressure cooker and add 1½kg/3lb 5oz of water.
2. Cook under full pressure for one hour, then remove from the heat and allow the pressure cooker to cool.
3. Strain the stock and repeat this process a second time with the remainder of the ingredients, but use the previously made stock instead of water.
4. Strain the finished stock and reserve.
INFUSING AND FILTERING THE CONSOMME
1. Bring the finished stock back to a simmer.
2. Remove from the heat and add all the aromatics. Infuse for about ten minutes.
3. Pour the stock into the largest flat-bottomed container you have. Refrigerate until it gels, then transfer to the freezer until completely solid.
4. Once the stock is frozen, dip the container into a sink filled with warm water. As soon as the edges of the stock melt, tip the frozen block on to a muslin-lined perforated tray and sit this in a larger container. Place in the fridge and let the stock slowly melt over 24 hours (don't try to speed it up). During this time the ice and gelatin will naturally filter the stock and you will be left with a crystal clear consommé in the container underneath the perforated tray. In the muslin on top of the tray will be the remaining filtrate, still icy and filled with gelatin.
5. Pour off the consommé into a clean container and refrigerate or freeze until needed.
6. Reserve the contents of the muslin for poaching the duck meat for the duck with pancakes.
MAKING THE DUCK CONFIT
1. Place all the spices in a blender and grind to a coarse powder.
2. Mix the spices with the salt and the mandarin zest.
3. Put the duck legs in a container and surround them with the spice-salt mixture. Set aside for 12 hours. Remove them from the salt and wash very thoroughly.
4. Preheat the oven to 65C/150F/Gas ¼. Place the duck legs in a roasting pan, cover with duck fat and cook in the oven for 6-8 hours. If you don't have a convection oven, set your oven to the lowest it will go. You may need to jam the door open and use an oven thermometer to ensure you get the required temperature.
5. Cool the cooked duck legs to room temperature, then remove them from the fat. Using your hands, pull off the leg meat and shred it into fine strands. Reserve this for the stir-fry.
MAKING THE PICKLED CUCUMBER
1. Place the water, vinegar and sugar in a small saucepan. Bring to the boil, then turn off the heat and cool the mixture to room temperature.
2. Use a mandoline to slice thin rounds from either end of the cucumber, where it has fewer seeds. Stop when you get to the thicker part where there are more seeds. Reserve the middle of the cucumber to serve with the crispy pancake portion of the meal.
3. Place the cucumber slices in a small container and fill with the pickling liquid. Cover the container and refrigerate for at least six hours. (This can be done several days in advance). Use when serving the dumpling dish.
PREPARING THE PANCAKE GARNISH
1. Peel the cucumber and cut it in half lengthways. Use a small spoon to scoop out the seeds.
2. Cut the cucumber into batons roughly 5cm/2in long and ½cm/¼in square.
3. Trim both ends of the spring onions. Cut the remainder into lengths roughly 5cm/2in long, then cut these lengthways into thin ribbons. Set aside for the pancakes, but reserve 12 strands for the finished consommé.
PREPARING THE DUCK CROWN
1. Place the cinnamon stick, star anise, cloves, coriander seeds and peppercorns in a saucepan with the salt and water and bring to the boil.
2. Remove the pan from the heat and allow the spices to infuse for ten minutes.
3. Pour the mixture into a container large enough to hold the duck crown.
4. Submerge the duck crown in the brine and cover the container. Refrigerate for 12 hours.
5. Drain off the brine and fill the container with cold water. Soak the duck for two hours, changing the water every 15 minutes, to remove any excess salt from the meat.
6. Remove the crown from the water, blot it dry with kitchen paper and refrigerate until needed.
PREPARING THE CRISPY SKIN
1. Take the two sheets of duck skin and spread them out on a cutting board with the external side facing up.
2. Using a sharp knife, trim both sheets into a rectangular shape.
3. Place each sheet of skin, external side up, on a metal cooling rack, and stretch out as far as possible without tearing. Use a barding needle and butcher's string to stitch the skin to the racks around the edges. The skin should be fully stretched out, but not pulled so taut that it will rip away from the string when it contracts during the cooking process.
4. Use a fine needle to prick tiny holes all over the surface of the skin, but be careful - don't push the needle through the skin. The lightly punctured surface will allow moisture and fat to escape.
5. Preheat a convection oven to 60C/140F/Gas ¼. Place the racks on foil-lined baking sheets and cook the skin for three hours.
6. In the meantime, warm the malt extract in a small pan until it is very liquid, then whisk in the vinegar.
7. Remove the skin sheets from the oven and use kitchen paper to blot away any moisture on the surface of the skin. Increase the oven temperature to 170C/320F/Gas 3.
8. Brush the skins with a thin, even coating of the warm malt mixture.
9. While the oven is heating, take the wood chips and wrap them in foil. Heat the package in a sauté pan until the chips begin to smoke, then place in the hot oven. Put the skins in the oven with the smoking chips for approximately 15 minutes.
10. Remove the skins and set aside. Discard the used wood chips.
FINISHING THE DUCK AND SKIN
1. Place the stock in a pan and heat until melted. Skim off any oil on the surface. Add the water and heat to 70C/160F, using a digital probe to check the temperature and keep it constant.
2. When the temperature stabilises, insert the probe into the thickest part of the duck crown. (Ideally, use two probes to monitor both the liquid temperature and the meat temperature during cooking.)
3. Submerge the duck in the hot broth and poach the meat until its internal temperature reaches 70C/160F.
4. Remove the crown from the liquid and leave to rest in a warm spot for ten minutes.
5. Reserve 500g/1lb 2oz of the poaching liquid for the stir-fry.
6. After resting, place the crown on a cutting board and remove each breast from the bone.
7. While the duck breasts are resting, place the racks of skin in a large roasting pan.
8. Heat the oil to 190C/375F and use a ladle to pour it over the skin. It's helpful to hold each rack at a steep angle and let the oil run down the skin and collect in the roasting tray. Continue until the skin becomes puffed and crispy and has taken on a rich colour. (You might need to return the oil to the saucepan and reheat it during this process.)
9. Transfer the racks to a work surface and snip off the butcher's string.
10. Place the crispy sheets of skin on a cutting board and cut into strips. Place on a platter and keep warm.
11. Slice the breasts thinly and fan them out on a serving platter.
SERVING THE PANCAKES
1. Steam the pancakes (allow 4-5 per person) in a bamboo steamer. Serve these in the steamer basket along with the platters of duck skin and meat, the cucumber batons, spring onions and the Peking or hoisin sauce.
PREPARING THE SHIITAKE MUSHROOMS
1. Prepare all the ingredients as listed and reserve.
MAKING THE GLAZE
1. Pour the port and wine into a saucepan and gently bring to a simmer. Carefully set the alcohol alight and let the flame burn out while simmering.
2. Add the broth and reduce the liquid to a consistency that coats the back of a spoon.
3. Remove from the heat and add the aromatics for a few minutes, then strain the stock through a fine sieve. Adjust the acidity with the sherry vinegar. Set aside to finish the dish.
SERVING THE DUCK CONFIT
1. Heat a wok or a large sauté pan until very hot.
2. Add a small amount of grapeseed oil, the peppercorns and chillies, and swirl to coat the pan lightly. Add the mushrooms, ginger, spring onion, shallot and garlic, and quickly stir-fry to keep them from burning.
3. When the mushrooms have started to wilt and the pan smells very fragrant, deglaze the pan with about ¾ of the glaze, then add the shredded confit.
4. Bring the pan to a simmer to warm the meat through. Add more glaze if necessary (it should just coat the meat and vegetables).
5. When everything is hot, remove the pan from the heat and add the soy sauce and sesame oil to taste. It's important not to add the sesame oil until the very last moment or the nutty aroma will be lost.
6. Serve with the iceberg lettuce. The stir-fry can be wrapped up in lettuce.
BRAISING THE SHIITAKE MUSHROOMS
1. Remove the stems from the mushrooms, and cut straight across the caps to remove the gills and create a smooth surface. Discard the stems.
2. Heat the oil in a small sauté pan over a medium heat, then sear the flat side of the mushroom caps until lightly browned.
3. Use kitchen paper to blot up any excess oil in the pan, then deglaze with the mirin.
4. Reduce the mirin until it thickens and coats the mushrooms.
5. Add the consommé and simmer for about three minutes, until it thickens and glazes the mushrooms too.
6. Remove the pan from the heat and transfer the mushrooms to a container to cool. Refrigerate until needed.
MAKING THE DUMPLINGS
1. Refrigerate the duck meat and the bowl and blade of a food processor.
2. Blend 20g/¾oz of the meat to a paste and mix it with the salt (this will help to extract the protein from the meat, which is necessary for a good texture). Refrigerate for one hour.
3. In the meantime, sweat the leek and cabbage in butter until very soft. Reserve.
4. After one hour, blend the salted meat with 125g/4½oz of the fresh meat and the skimmed milk powder. Purée this in the cold food processor. Chop the remaining duck meat into very small pieces.
5. Add the fat, the egg, the soy sauce and the sesame oil. Process with the meat.
6. When the meat is a fine paste remove it from the food processor and fold in the sweated leeks and cabbage, the minced ginger, the spring onions, the black pepper and the chopped duck meat.
7. Place the wonton wrappers on a work surface. Roll 15g/¼oz of the meat into balls and place one in the middle of each wrapper. Wet the outer edge of the wrappers, then gather them around the meat and pinch closed at the top. Place on a tray covered with a damp paper towel and reserve in the refrigerator until needed.
SERVING THE CONSOMME WITH DUMPLINGS
1. Put the consommé in a pan and heat until hot.
2. Meanwhile, cut each mushroom into several thin slices and fan these out in the bottom of four warm serving bowls.
3. Poach the dumplings over the consommé for eight minutes, then sit three of them on the mushrooms in each bowl.
4. Drain the pickled cucumber and place the slices on a cutting board. Cut a slit from the middle to the edge of each round, cutting through the skin. Roll the rounds into a cone shape and place on dumplings. Garnish with the ribbons of spring onions.
5. Heat the bowls. Place two drops of jasmine essential oil on the rim of each hot bowl and use kitchen paper to wipe the oil around the rim.
6. Pour 200g/7oz of hot consommé into each bowl and serve immediately.
So when Heston did his perfect Peking Duck I watched with interest and shelved my plans for a simple New Year's Eve dinner of cold meats and cheese. 2008 is going to be a really challenging year, so hey, why not say goodbye to 2007 with something simple?
Because I'm a sucker for punishment, that's why.
So here it is. Heston's 3 course Peking Duck recipe. I've been doing a few searches on the www and I can't find any mere mortal who has attempted it yet. The BBC website for "Perfection" invites readers to send in photos of their attempts to recreate the featured recipes. Unsurprisingly there are not too many: a couple of Baked Alaskas and a DIY Tandoor.
In this recipe, Heston uses grams for both solid and liquid measurements for pinpoint accuracy. To weigh liquids, any suitable container can be placed on digital scales and the scales reset to zero.
Ingredients
For the ducks
2 whole ducks, preferably Silver Hill breed
For the consommé
750g/1lb 10½oz reserved chicken wings, chopped into small pieces
1.2kg/2lb 10¼oz pork spare ribs, cut into 2½cm/1in pieces
reserved duck carcasses, wing tips, necks, extra meat and trimmings, chopped into small pieces
40g/1½oz fresh ginger, thinly sliced
60g/2¼oz spring onions, sliced
90g/3¼oz Shaoxing rice wine or fino sherry
For the consommé infusion and ice filtration
1kg/2¼lb finished stock (reserve any extra for future use)
20g/¾oz fresh ginger, sliced
2½g/¼oz Sichuan peppercorns
2g¼oz Sichuan chillies, roasted
2g/¼oz cinnamon stick
4g/¼oz star anise
10g/½oz spring onions
For the duck confit
42g/1½oz star anise
24g/¾oz ground ginger
12g/½oz Sichuan peppercorns
12g/½oz cinnamon stick
6g/¼oz cardamom
150g/5¼oz sel gris or coarse sea salt
1 mandarin orange, zest only
4 reserved duck legs
rendered duck fat
For the pickled cucumber
50g/1¾oz water
75g/2½oz white wine vinegar
25g/1oz sugar
1 English cucumber
For the pancake garnish
reserved middle section of cucumber
1 bunch spring onions
For the duck crown
1 cinnamon stick
5 whole star anise
3 whole cloves
10 coriander seeds
5 black peppercorns
60g/2¼oz salt
1kg/2lb 3¼oz water
For the crispy skin
reserved sheets of duck skin
125g/4½oz malt extract (maltose, available from health food shops)
25g/1oz rice wine vinegar
75g/2½oz wood chips, ideally cherrywood
For finishing the duck and skin
reserved unfiltered stock from the muslin, plus sufficient water to make 2kg/4lb 6½oz liquid in total
1 reserved brined duck crown
2 sheets prepared duck skin
2kg/4lb 6½oz grapeseed oil or other vegetable oil
For serving the pancakes
reserved sliced duck breast
reserved crispy skin
reserved cucumber batons and spring onion ribbons
Peking duck or hoisin sauce, such as Lee Kum Kee's
18-20 pancakes (available from supermarkets and oriental grocers)
For the mushrooms and aromatics
140g/5oz shiitake mushrooms, sliced 2cm/1in thick
15g/½oz fresh ginger, finely julienned
50g/1¾oz spring onion, finely julienned
25g/1oz shallot, minced
5g/¼oz garlic, minced
2g/¼oz Sichuan chillies, de-seeded and sliced
2 Sichuan peppercorns, crushed
1 small fresh red chilli, thinly sliced
For the glaze
65g/2½oz white port
50g/1¾oz Shaoxing rice wine or fino sherry
500g/1lb 2oz reserved cooking broth (from the crown poaching liquid)
3½g/¼oz fresh ginger, thinly sliced
2g/¼oz star anise, crushed
sherry vinegar, to taste
For serving the duck confit
grapeseed oil or groundnut oil
reserved mushrooms and aromatics
reserved glaze
reserved shredded duck confit
soy sauce
sesame oil
1 head iceberg lettuce, separated into individual leaves
For the braised shiitake mushrooms
4 large shiitake mushrooms
25g/1oz grapeseed or groundnut oil
30g/1oz mirin
100g/3½oz reserved duck consommé
10g/½oz light soy sauce
For the dumplings
200g/7oz reserved duck meat (taken from one of the reserved breasts)
½ tsp salt
120g/4¼oz finely minced leek
120g/4¼oz finely minced savoy cabbage
25g/1oz unsalted butter
1½ tsp skimmed milk powder
60g/2¼oz duck fat
50g/1¾oz free-range egg
14g/½oz soy sauce
25g/1oz sesame oil
15g/½oz fresh ginger, finely chopped
50g/1¾oz spring onion, finely chopped
½ tsp freshly ground and sifted black pepper
12 thin, round wonton wrappers (available at Asian grocers)
For serving the consommé with dumplings
800g/1lb 12¼oz finished consommé
4 reserved braised shiitake mushrooms
12 reserved dumplings
12 slices of reserved pickled cucumber
12 reserved spring onion ribbons
8 drops jasmine essential oil
Method
You will need the following specialist equipment: mandoline, pressure cooker, bamboo steamer, food processor, barding needle, butcher's string, kitchen shears, wire rack wrapped in muslin, oven thermometer, digital probe.
PREPARING THE DUCKS
1. Remove the giblets from the ducks. Reserve everything except the livers for the consommé, then rinse the cavity of the birds.
2. Remove the head, neck and wing tips of both birds, cutting as close to the body as you can without damaging the skin on the breast. Reserve the head, neck and wing tips for the consommé.
3. To remove the skin from the birds, begin by using a paring knife to cut through the tendons at the bottom joint of the legs.
4. Working with one duck at a time, cut a slit through the skin on the back, running from the top to the bottom of the bird. Using a pair of kitchen shears, remove the parson's nose.
5. Use your knife to gently free the skin from the flesh. Begin by peeling back the skin on both sides of the long cut. When you reach the legs and wings turn the bird over on to its back and continue peeling the skin away from the wings and then from the legs. Do your best to keep the skin intact and in one piece. Repeat this process with the other duck.
6. Remove the legs from the ducks by popping each joint from its hip socket and then cutting it away from the body. Reserve the legs for the confit.
7. Remove the wings in a similar fashion - by popping them from their sockets and then cutting them away from the body.
8. Reserve the wings for the consommé. Chop the bones and reserve for the consommé.
9. Take one duck and use kitchen shears to cut through the ribs, separating the breast from the back. Cut close to the breast and then cut through to the neck. The idea is to have a clean separation between the breasts on the bone and the ribs, back and neck. Reserve this 'crown' of breast and the back for the first course.
10. Remove the wishbone from the crown by carefully cutting along it with your knife, then using your fingers to prise it loose.
11. Take the other duck and remove the breast meat with your knife. Reserve 200g/7oz of this meat for the dumplings and use the rest in the consommé.
12. Reserve the butchered carcasses of the ducks for the consommé.
MAKING THE CONSOMME
1. Put half of all the meats and trimmings, half the aromatics and half the Shaoxing rice wine in a pressure cooker and add 1½kg/3lb 5oz of water.
2. Cook under full pressure for one hour, then remove from the heat and allow the pressure cooker to cool.
3. Strain the stock and repeat this process a second time with the remainder of the ingredients, but use the previously made stock instead of water.
4. Strain the finished stock and reserve.
INFUSING AND FILTERING THE CONSOMME
1. Bring the finished stock back to a simmer.
2. Remove from the heat and add all the aromatics. Infuse for about ten minutes.
3. Pour the stock into the largest flat-bottomed container you have. Refrigerate until it gels, then transfer to the freezer until completely solid.
4. Once the stock is frozen, dip the container into a sink filled with warm water. As soon as the edges of the stock melt, tip the frozen block on to a muslin-lined perforated tray and sit this in a larger container. Place in the fridge and let the stock slowly melt over 24 hours (don't try to speed it up). During this time the ice and gelatin will naturally filter the stock and you will be left with a crystal clear consommé in the container underneath the perforated tray. In the muslin on top of the tray will be the remaining filtrate, still icy and filled with gelatin.
5. Pour off the consommé into a clean container and refrigerate or freeze until needed.
6. Reserve the contents of the muslin for poaching the duck meat for the duck with pancakes.
MAKING THE DUCK CONFIT
1. Place all the spices in a blender and grind to a coarse powder.
2. Mix the spices with the salt and the mandarin zest.
3. Put the duck legs in a container and surround them with the spice-salt mixture. Set aside for 12 hours. Remove them from the salt and wash very thoroughly.
4. Preheat the oven to 65C/150F/Gas ¼. Place the duck legs in a roasting pan, cover with duck fat and cook in the oven for 6-8 hours. If you don't have a convection oven, set your oven to the lowest it will go. You may need to jam the door open and use an oven thermometer to ensure you get the required temperature.
5. Cool the cooked duck legs to room temperature, then remove them from the fat. Using your hands, pull off the leg meat and shred it into fine strands. Reserve this for the stir-fry.
MAKING THE PICKLED CUCUMBER
1. Place the water, vinegar and sugar in a small saucepan. Bring to the boil, then turn off the heat and cool the mixture to room temperature.
2. Use a mandoline to slice thin rounds from either end of the cucumber, where it has fewer seeds. Stop when you get to the thicker part where there are more seeds. Reserve the middle of the cucumber to serve with the crispy pancake portion of the meal.
3. Place the cucumber slices in a small container and fill with the pickling liquid. Cover the container and refrigerate for at least six hours. (This can be done several days in advance). Use when serving the dumpling dish.
PREPARING THE PANCAKE GARNISH
1. Peel the cucumber and cut it in half lengthways. Use a small spoon to scoop out the seeds.
2. Cut the cucumber into batons roughly 5cm/2in long and ½cm/¼in square.
3. Trim both ends of the spring onions. Cut the remainder into lengths roughly 5cm/2in long, then cut these lengthways into thin ribbons. Set aside for the pancakes, but reserve 12 strands for the finished consommé.
PREPARING THE DUCK CROWN
1. Place the cinnamon stick, star anise, cloves, coriander seeds and peppercorns in a saucepan with the salt and water and bring to the boil.
2. Remove the pan from the heat and allow the spices to infuse for ten minutes.
3. Pour the mixture into a container large enough to hold the duck crown.
4. Submerge the duck crown in the brine and cover the container. Refrigerate for 12 hours.
5. Drain off the brine and fill the container with cold water. Soak the duck for two hours, changing the water every 15 minutes, to remove any excess salt from the meat.
6. Remove the crown from the water, blot it dry with kitchen paper and refrigerate until needed.
PREPARING THE CRISPY SKIN
1. Take the two sheets of duck skin and spread them out on a cutting board with the external side facing up.
2. Using a sharp knife, trim both sheets into a rectangular shape.
3. Place each sheet of skin, external side up, on a metal cooling rack, and stretch out as far as possible without tearing. Use a barding needle and butcher's string to stitch the skin to the racks around the edges. The skin should be fully stretched out, but not pulled so taut that it will rip away from the string when it contracts during the cooking process.
4. Use a fine needle to prick tiny holes all over the surface of the skin, but be careful - don't push the needle through the skin. The lightly punctured surface will allow moisture and fat to escape.
5. Preheat a convection oven to 60C/140F/Gas ¼. Place the racks on foil-lined baking sheets and cook the skin for three hours.
6. In the meantime, warm the malt extract in a small pan until it is very liquid, then whisk in the vinegar.
7. Remove the skin sheets from the oven and use kitchen paper to blot away any moisture on the surface of the skin. Increase the oven temperature to 170C/320F/Gas 3.
8. Brush the skins with a thin, even coating of the warm malt mixture.
9. While the oven is heating, take the wood chips and wrap them in foil. Heat the package in a sauté pan until the chips begin to smoke, then place in the hot oven. Put the skins in the oven with the smoking chips for approximately 15 minutes.
10. Remove the skins and set aside. Discard the used wood chips.
FINISHING THE DUCK AND SKIN
1. Place the stock in a pan and heat until melted. Skim off any oil on the surface. Add the water and heat to 70C/160F, using a digital probe to check the temperature and keep it constant.
2. When the temperature stabilises, insert the probe into the thickest part of the duck crown. (Ideally, use two probes to monitor both the liquid temperature and the meat temperature during cooking.)
3. Submerge the duck in the hot broth and poach the meat until its internal temperature reaches 70C/160F.
4. Remove the crown from the liquid and leave to rest in a warm spot for ten minutes.
5. Reserve 500g/1lb 2oz of the poaching liquid for the stir-fry.
6. After resting, place the crown on a cutting board and remove each breast from the bone.
7. While the duck breasts are resting, place the racks of skin in a large roasting pan.
8. Heat the oil to 190C/375F and use a ladle to pour it over the skin. It's helpful to hold each rack at a steep angle and let the oil run down the skin and collect in the roasting tray. Continue until the skin becomes puffed and crispy and has taken on a rich colour. (You might need to return the oil to the saucepan and reheat it during this process.)
9. Transfer the racks to a work surface and snip off the butcher's string.
10. Place the crispy sheets of skin on a cutting board and cut into strips. Place on a platter and keep warm.
11. Slice the breasts thinly and fan them out on a serving platter.
SERVING THE PANCAKES
1. Steam the pancakes (allow 4-5 per person) in a bamboo steamer. Serve these in the steamer basket along with the platters of duck skin and meat, the cucumber batons, spring onions and the Peking or hoisin sauce.
PREPARING THE SHIITAKE MUSHROOMS
1. Prepare all the ingredients as listed and reserve.
MAKING THE GLAZE
1. Pour the port and wine into a saucepan and gently bring to a simmer. Carefully set the alcohol alight and let the flame burn out while simmering.
2. Add the broth and reduce the liquid to a consistency that coats the back of a spoon.
3. Remove from the heat and add the aromatics for a few minutes, then strain the stock through a fine sieve. Adjust the acidity with the sherry vinegar. Set aside to finish the dish.
SERVING THE DUCK CONFIT
1. Heat a wok or a large sauté pan until very hot.
2. Add a small amount of grapeseed oil, the peppercorns and chillies, and swirl to coat the pan lightly. Add the mushrooms, ginger, spring onion, shallot and garlic, and quickly stir-fry to keep them from burning.
3. When the mushrooms have started to wilt and the pan smells very fragrant, deglaze the pan with about ¾ of the glaze, then add the shredded confit.
4. Bring the pan to a simmer to warm the meat through. Add more glaze if necessary (it should just coat the meat and vegetables).
5. When everything is hot, remove the pan from the heat and add the soy sauce and sesame oil to taste. It's important not to add the sesame oil until the very last moment or the nutty aroma will be lost.
6. Serve with the iceberg lettuce. The stir-fry can be wrapped up in lettuce.
BRAISING THE SHIITAKE MUSHROOMS
1. Remove the stems from the mushrooms, and cut straight across the caps to remove the gills and create a smooth surface. Discard the stems.
2. Heat the oil in a small sauté pan over a medium heat, then sear the flat side of the mushroom caps until lightly browned.
3. Use kitchen paper to blot up any excess oil in the pan, then deglaze with the mirin.
4. Reduce the mirin until it thickens and coats the mushrooms.
5. Add the consommé and simmer for about three minutes, until it thickens and glazes the mushrooms too.
6. Remove the pan from the heat and transfer the mushrooms to a container to cool. Refrigerate until needed.
MAKING THE DUMPLINGS
1. Refrigerate the duck meat and the bowl and blade of a food processor.
2. Blend 20g/¾oz of the meat to a paste and mix it with the salt (this will help to extract the protein from the meat, which is necessary for a good texture). Refrigerate for one hour.
3. In the meantime, sweat the leek and cabbage in butter until very soft. Reserve.
4. After one hour, blend the salted meat with 125g/4½oz of the fresh meat and the skimmed milk powder. Purée this in the cold food processor. Chop the remaining duck meat into very small pieces.
5. Add the fat, the egg, the soy sauce and the sesame oil. Process with the meat.
6. When the meat is a fine paste remove it from the food processor and fold in the sweated leeks and cabbage, the minced ginger, the spring onions, the black pepper and the chopped duck meat.
7. Place the wonton wrappers on a work surface. Roll 15g/¼oz of the meat into balls and place one in the middle of each wrapper. Wet the outer edge of the wrappers, then gather them around the meat and pinch closed at the top. Place on a tray covered with a damp paper towel and reserve in the refrigerator until needed.
SERVING THE CONSOMME WITH DUMPLINGS
1. Put the consommé in a pan and heat until hot.
2. Meanwhile, cut each mushroom into several thin slices and fan these out in the bottom of four warm serving bowls.
3. Poach the dumplings over the consommé for eight minutes, then sit three of them on the mushrooms in each bowl.
4. Drain the pickled cucumber and place the slices on a cutting board. Cut a slit from the middle to the edge of each round, cutting through the skin. Roll the rounds into a cone shape and place on dumplings. Garnish with the ribbons of spring onions.
5. Heat the bowls. Place two drops of jasmine essential oil on the rim of each hot bowl and use kitchen paper to wipe the oil around the rim.
6. Pour 200g/7oz of hot consommé into each bowl and serve immediately.
Wednesday, 19 December 2007
A Heston Christmas
I just sat through an hour of Heston's Christmas Perfection with the biggest grin on my face. The man is a god. How I wish I was eating that food...
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